Let’s go Cagayan Valley Roadtripping

The Cagayan Valley

The Cagayan Valley is at the heart of the northernmost mainland Province on the Island of Luzon. The Province of Cagayan.

The 103km Cagayan Valley Road ( CVR ) from Tuguegarao to Aparri is our route for this trip, and although it has been blessed with many attractions both man-made and natural, the Cagayan Valley is still a relatively undiscovered region.

The CVR follows the eastern bank of the Cagayan River to Aparri and from the Magapit Suspension Bridge near Lal-lo southwards to Tuguegarao is part of the Pan Philippine Highway AH26 (which runs 3517km from Laoag in Ilocos Sur to Zamboanga in Mindanao )

There was a large Spanish population in Cagayan, who introduced Christianity into the region, which is why the province is dotted with many churches. It’s a good place for Pilgrimages and Visita Iglesia especially during Holy Week.

Along our Cagayan Valley route you will find beautiful Century Old Spanish churches, like San Antonio De Galicia Church, Iguig and St.Philomene  Church, Alcala.
To satisfy your hunger Cagayan has some delicious local cuisine for your tastebuds to indulge on. Take time to sample local delicacies such as Pancit Batil Patong, Milk Candy, Cagayan Longganisa and Hopia Ibanag.

Tuguegarao  the Provincial Capital, is a modern city with its own airport, restaurants, hotels to suit most budgets and shopping areas. The city serves as a good starting point for our  trip North through the Cagayan Valley.

So let’s get out on the road, see what Tuguegarao can offer and then head up the CVR ( Cagayan Valley Road) to Aparri  where the CVR  ends at the Estuary of the Cagayan River at Kilometre Post 584.

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Around Tuguegarao

St. Peter and St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral

Rizal Street, Tuguegarao

Also known as Tuguegarao Cathedral, this 18C Spanish Church is one of the largest found in the Cagayan Valley. Completed in 1768 It is the seat of the Archdiocese of Tuguegarao.

The Cathedrals red brick façade is decorated with red columns and stained glass windows. The impressive five storey Bell Tower stands just to the right of the main entrance.

Visit the Lighthouse Cooperative Ybanag Food Products

Corner Taft Street Centro 02, 39 Luna Street, Tuguegarao 3500

Open from 08.00 to 17.00

This is the place to start your Pasalubong shopping. Or if you are returning this way then leave it till your return. Add a bag or two of their Chicha-Rabao ( like chicharon but a lot tastier and made from Carabao Skin ) . Try the different flavours such as Garlic and Spicy.

Maybe buy a bag or two for your trip along the CVR.

Cagayan Museum and Historical Research Centre

The museum located in the Provincial Capitol Building Complex and documents the evolution of Cagayan Province from prehistoric times up to the present.
It was established in 1973 and one of its treasured exhibits is a replica of the Callao Metatarsal, discovered in the Callao Caves of Penablanca in 2007. It is the Earliest Human Fossil found in the Asia Pacific Region.

Pancit Batil Patong

Before we leave Tuguegarao let’s eat the local dish called Pancit Batil Patong.

This is a dish of Miki noodles cooked in a big wok like utensil and layered with minced Carabao meat, bean sprouts, cabbage, carrots  and cooked for 25 minutes. It is served sprinkled with crispy chicharon and topped with a fried egg (Patong).

A bowl of carabao bone soup (Batil) is also served, which I was told should be poured into the bottom of the bowl and eaten together with the Pancit and not as a separate soup.
Each customer is also given a bowl of chopped onions to mix with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli to create their own sauce which adds to the pansit’s flavour.

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Tuguegarao to Iguig  (18km)

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How to get to Iguig

Take a Jeepney or van to Iguig from Don Domingo Terminal and alight at Brgy Atulu which is our first stop.

Iguig is roughly 517km north of Manila and the best time to visit is during Lent and summer.

Barangay Atulu, Iguig

The Barangay is known as the bricks and pottery centre of the Cagayan Valley.
Nearly every household is involved in the pottery industry which works under the Municipalities One Town, One Product programme.

Wander around the village paths and see for yourself how much work goes into making a simple clay pot or brick. Everywhere yougo someone is working clay intoone of the 75,000 products made here each month. The potters  are also open to creating your own special product for you, whether it be a bird bath, flower pot or some kind of clay sculpture.  Ask around.

Along the main road there are numerous stalls selling the products that are made here. You are bound to find something to take home like a Palayok (a clay cooking pot) or a Kalan (charcoal grill).

From here ask directions to the Calvary Hills and St.James the Great Church

​17C Spanish Well

San Antonio de Galicia Church (also known as St. James the Great Church)

The Church was built between 1765 and 1787. The brick and stone structure is supported on its back wall by some rare massive flying buttresses making it distinct from other Spanish period built churches.

A three storey bell tower stands just to the right with four bells dated 1846, Santo Domingo 1880 and two with no date.

Calvary Hills

Iguig is also an important Pilgrimage place. Many people come here during the Lenten Season and Easter to visit Calvary Hills, which is becoming known as the Mt. Calvary of the Far East.

Created in 1982 and set in 4 hectacres of rolling hills next to the Cagayan River and behind the Church, this religious site features the 14 Stations of the Cross.

Calvary Hills is now considered one of the major pilgrimage destinations in the country and is a popular Visita Iglesia destination during Holy Week.   

Cagayan Valley – Iguig to Alcala (26km)

Alcala grew out of a settlement named Fulay ( meaning Red in the Ibanag language, which referred to the colour of the soil) and received its “Town” status in 1789, changing its name to Alcala only in 1843.

During the Philippine Revolution, one of its leaders, Daniel Tirona, took refuge in the church.

Alcala is famous for two things – The widest church in the Philippines and Milk Candy

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St. Philomene Church

St. Philomene Church is situated along Maharlika Highway, in the municipality of Alcala, Cagayan. It was built in 1881 by Fr. Casamiro Gonzalez and finished by Fr. Pedro Perez. It is a red brick Spanish era church and  is the largest brick church in the Archdiocese of Tuguegarao and the widest church in the Philippines at 24 metres.

St. Philomene Church is the Cagayan Valley’s widest church and because of this can accommodate three aisles and four rows of pews.

The  red brick church is set in a beautiful garden with views over the Cagayan River from the Belfry.

The church exterior is rather plain with a little decoration apart from its red brick columns and four niches with statues, and a window. There are two angels on both corners of the church.

A small bell tower is positioned between the church and a nearby school. Its three Bells are dated 1857, 1866 and 1918.

Cagayan Valley – Alcala to Lal-lo ( 63km )

Lal-lo is 566km from Manila. Lal-lo is one of the first four cities in the Philippines ( the others being Manila 1571, Cebu 1565, and Naga 1575 )

Lal-lo was known as Nueva Segovia during the Spanish era and was the seat of the Diocese of Segovia until it moved to Vigan in Ilocos Sur in 1758 after which it reverted to its original name of Lal-lo.

In 1839 Lal-lo lost its title of Capital of Cagayan when the seat of power was transferred to Tuguegarao.

Lal-lo is slowly regaining its strategical importance with the opening of an International airport which will have links to other ASEAN countries as well as domestic flights.

Seguro Snack Hauz and Restaurant

A good place to stopover for Merienda and a view of the Magapit Suspension bridge is Seguro Snack Hauz at Gattaran.

There are some good views of the Suspension Bridge here so have your cameras ready.

Seguro Snack Hauz  is Open from 06.00 till 20.30

Contact  0926 211 1226

Facebook @143segurorestaurant

St.Domingo de Guzman Parish Church – Lal-lo

The red brick church is very similar to the one in Alcala. It was built in 1581 by the Dominicans and is the only remaining Spanish structure left in Lal-lo.

There used to be three churches in Segovia but when the Diocese of Segovia moved to Vigan, the Cathedral and two other churches, Bagumbayan and Tocolona, were merged into one Parish. The church that remains in Lal-lo today is Bagumbayan Church as the Cathedral and Tocoloano Church were abandoned, fell into disrepair and were neglected.

In 2016 The Philippine Post Office printed 100,000  Commemorative Stamps of St. Dominic Church to celebrate the 435^th Anniversary of the founding of the City.

Evangelization Cross

Between the Church Entrance and the Cagayan River there’s and huge wooden cross, which was placed there by Dominican Missionaries more then 300 years ago. To help preserve it, the Cross has been encased in a glass frame.

​The Plaza

Rizal Statue – In the Plaza opposite the Lal-lo Municipal Hall the statue of Jose Rizal once stood. All that remains (when I visited in February 2017) was the red brick pedestal. Rizal was toppled by Typhoon Lawin in October 2016.
I hope that they restore him to his rightful place soon.

Pasalubong – Puti’s Chilli Garlic is a very tasty chilli paste locally made. Ask around and hopefully you may find a jar of it.

Camalaniugan to Aparri  ( 12 km )

The End of Cagayan Valley Road

We’ve reached the end of the Cagayan Valley Road. 584 km from Manila and 105 km from Tuguegarao where we started our Cagayan Valley road trip.

The Aparri Delta, is where after its 400km journey through the Cagayan Valley the Cagayan River crashes into the South China Sea.
We’ve followed its journey through the province from Tuguegarao to the sea. All that remains now is to Walk out along the sea wall to watch the fusion of fresh and salt waters and marvel at the wonders of nature.

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